<div class="section">
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Simplybuy was built to be the absolute best tool for anyone - newbie or professional alike - to select their new gear.  We’ve always followed the KISS (keep it simple, stupid!) model and have prioritized keeping our custom PSGs (product selection guides) to 3 minutes or less and letting our AI do the rest of the heavy lifting.  But for those who really want to dive into the deep end and learn everything there is to know about their future pair of skis before making a purchase, this post is for you.  We’ll go through each step of the guide in detail to help ease your mind that you are buying the absolute perfect skis for you. Let’s get started.

</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Gender
</h2>
Hopefully this one is obvious.  Women’s skis are made for smaller, lighter skiers.  Thus they are narrower and more flexible than skis made for men.  We generally recommend that men ski on skis made for men and women ski on skis made for women, but there are exceptions.  The most common being that tall, muscular women are often better suited riding men’s skis.  If you are a woman and fit into this category based on your height and weight, our AI will simply bring you back to the first question and let you select to shop for men’s skis instead.
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Ability Level 
</h2>
There are skis designed for every ability level. Typically beginner skis are less expensive but are more forgiving for new skiers. On the other end of the spectrum, skis for advanced and expert skiers will usually cost more because of the advanced features which cater to the skilled skiers.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">
Beginner
</h3>
From those that have never skied to those that are able to slowly carve left and right in control on green terrain.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Intermediate</h3>
 Not new to skiing but also not the most skilled skier on the mountain. You are able to string together turns with minimal traverse comfortably on all blue terrain and easy black runs.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Advanced</h3> 
Can handle pretty much all runs. You are able to make turns with rhythm and flow on black runs.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Expert</h3>
You know who you are and you can handle anything the mountain throws at you.
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Ski Type
</h2>
Back in the day, skis were basically all the same.  Thin slices of wood with metal edges.  This was ok for getting down a reasonably steep slope, and that was about it.  Thankfully, nowadays we have skis specially designed for all sorts of different purposes.  We group them into 6 different categories. All mountain, big mountain, carving, park & pipe, powder, and alpine touring.  

  
<h3 class="section-sub-header">All Mountain</h3>
Designed to work well in all terrains and snow conditions. They are very versatile skis and will be able to handle anything the mountain throws at them. Best bet for most skiers. 

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Park & Pipe</h3>
Designed specifically for terrain parks and those who perform tricks.  Freestyle skis are generally twin-tipped, which is ideal for landing backwards or after performing a 180 or 540 (or 900!).  If you spend any significant time in “the park” we recommend freestyle skis as they will generally perform better on the rest of the mountain than other ski types will perform in the park.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Big Mountain</h3>
 Designed to be taken off the groomers and onto diverse terrain. Typically they are stiffer, longer skis.  If you are frequently going out of bounds or getting into backcountry that doesn’t quite warrant powder skis, big mountain might be the best fit.  Big mountain skis will do well in powder while still performing far better on groomers than pure powder skis would.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Carving</h3>

Designed for aggressively laying a ski over an edge and arching a perfect turn. Typical carving skis will have a narrower waist and short turn radiuses.


<h3 class="section-sub-header">Powder Skis</h3>
Designed to thrive in powder. Ideal pick for backcountry, helicopter or powder-cat skiing.  If you are lucky enough to get significant powder days, there is no feeling like clicking into proper powder skis in 2 feet of the fresh stuff.  But if you are skiing a mixture of backcountry and resort, we’d recommend one of the other ski types as the powder skis won’t perform great on groomers or in the park.  If you can afford it, having specialized powder skis just for those special days of deep powder will make them all that much better.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Alpine Touring</h3>
Designed for backcountry riders, alpine touring skis have bindings with detached heels which allow for uphill travel.  Ski touring is great, but these are the absolute least versatile skis and we’d never recommend them as a primary pair of skis for the resort.  Almost everyone who buys touring skis already has a set or two of the other types.  

</div>
 

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Ski Styles
</h2>

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Playful</h3> Simply put, playful skis are designed to make skiing down the mountain as fun as possible. They make it easy to initiate carving while being nimble, lightweight and flexible. However they will lack some stability at high speeds and reach their "redline" much easier than Balanced or Charging skis.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Charging</h3> Designed for high-speed and aggressive carving while blasting through anything the mountain throws at it. These skis will be stiffer, wider and heavier than the other styles.  

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Balanced</h3>Versatile skis that are maneuverability and more flexible than Charging skis without sacrificing too much performance while bombing down steeps.  Unless you have very specific needs, we generally recommend balanced skis for most skiers.  

</div>


<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Ski Sizes
</h2>
Getting the right size skis can mean the difference between floating blissfully down the mountain and feeling like a freight train without brakes.  
Our algorithm uses your height, weight, and answers from the previous questions to determine your size ranges.  
Similar to with ski type and style, there are tradeoffs to be made when selecting your ski size. In a perfect world we would ride long hard charging skis as we cruise down the groomer and then have them morph into shorter, more playful skis as we enter a patch of powdery trees, only to morph again into twin tips as we launch a 360 off a kicker to finish our run.  Unfortunately here in reality our skis stay the same size and shape all day so we need to find the best size to accommodate most situations we’ll find ourselves in.  

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Length Sizes</h3> 
Within your suggested ski size range there are several reasons to choose a shorter or longer ski. A shorter ski will be easier to turn but not as stable as a longer ski. Typically longer skis are ideal for aggressive skiers. While shorter skis can be easier to control for less skilled and more passive skiers.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Waist Width</h3> 
The measurement of a ski’s width at the middle (waist) of the ski. This is typically the narrowest part of the ski. Waist width has a large influence on how easy the ski is to turn, and how it will handle powder and ungroomed snow. Narrower waist widths are quicker edge to edge during turns, while wider waist widths provide better flotation in powder and choppy snow.

</div>


<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
SKi Tips (Tail)
</h2>
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Flat</h3>Designed only to go forward. Built for speed, aggressive carving and grip. Not for skiers with interest in skiing backwards (also known as skiing switch).

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Partial Twin</h3>Most common tail tip for All Mountain skis. Partial Twin tips will allow you to ski switch on groomed slopes as well as land switch landings for smaller jumps.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Full Twin</h3>

Designed for playful and creative skiing. Gives you more ability to jib, butter, and press all over the mountain. Full twin tips will be found on almost all skis designed for the terrain park but can also be found on All Mountain and Big Mountain skis.


</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Turn Radius
</h2>
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Short</h3>Carving Skis and All-Mountain/Powder Skis with Tapered Tips and Tails

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Medium</h3>All-Mountain Skis, Park & Pipe Skis

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Long</h3>Powder & Big-Mountain Skis

</div>




<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Camber Profile
</h2>
The Camber Profile is the shape of the ski when looking down the side. Camber is a convex shape while Rocker is a concave shape. Skis can also be hybrids of Rocker, Camber, and Flat. The best pick for you can depend on your ski type, ability level and desired feel.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Rocker</h3>Playful feel, initiates turns easily, and floats well in powder. However there is less pop and doesn't hold an edge as well compared to Camber skis. Often found on Big Mountain skis.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Camber</h3>Improves edge-hold, adds to spring out of a turn and helps with stability at speed, and adds pop for jumps. However it is not ideal in powder. Can be found on some Park & Pipe Skis.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Rocker/Camber/Rocker</h3> Initiates turns well and floats in powder, while the center camber adds stability, pop, speed and increased edge-hold. This is a great all round profile and the most common profile. Great pick for any terrain type or ability level.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Rocker/Camber</h3> A directional blend of rocker and camber. Typically adds stability and float in the front while giving added power and control in the back.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Camber/Rocker/Camber</h3> Looser feel and better float in powder than a traditional camber skis. Also easier to initiate turns.

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Rocker/Flat/Rocker</h3>More effective edge than pure Rocker which improves stability at speed. However this profile still retains the catch-free, floaty ride that the Rocker profile provides.

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Brands
</h2>
We generally advise only using brand name as a tiebreaker if two pairs of skis both equally meet the rest of your criteria.  There are top trusted brands that have wide ranges of skis (and other products) such as Salomon and K2.  And there are brands that specialize in a certain category, such as big mountain or powder.  In any event, picking a brand really comes down to personal preference, and we are confident that you will be happy with the quality of any brand of skis we recommend.  

</div>

<div class="section">
Congratulations! If you’ve made it this far, you are more than ready to select the perfect pair of skis.  With a little help from our trusty AI of course.  And remember, when in doubt, select all options that you think *might* be a fit for you and let us do the rest!

</div>

For those who really want to dive into the deep and learn everything there is to know about their future skis before making a purchase.

How To Use The SimplyBuy Ski Selection Guide

<div class="section">
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Simplybuy was built to be the absolute best tool for anyone - newbie or professional alike - to select their new gear.  We’ve always followed the KISS (keep it simple, stupid!) model and have prioritized keeping our custom PSGs (product selection guides) to 3 minutes or less and letting our AI do the rest of the heavy lifting.  But for those who really want to dive into the deep and learn everything there is to know about their future snowboard before making a purchase, this post is for you.  We’ll go through each step of the guide in detail to help ease your mind that you are buying the absolute perfect board for you. Let’s get started.
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Gender
</h2>
There are differences between men's and women's boards other than the graphic designs. Women’s boards are made for lighter riders with smaller feet.  Thus they are narrower and more flexible than boards made for men.  We generally recommend that men ride boards made for men and women ride boards made for women but there are exceptions.  The most common being that larger women are often better suited riding a “mens” board.  Our sizing calculator will automatically recommend switching to men's boards if you are a woman that fits into this exception.
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Ability Level 
</h2>
There are snowboards designed for every ability level. Typically beginner snowboards are less expensive and are more forgiving for new riders. On the other end, snowboards for advanced and expert riders will usually cost more because of the advanced features which cater to the skilled riders.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">
Beginner
</h3>
From those that have never snowboarded to those that are able to slide left and right in control on both edges on green terrain.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Intermediate</h3>
Not new to snowboarding but also not the most skilled rider on the mountain. You are able to string together turns with minimal traverse comfortably on all blue terrain and easy black runs.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Advanced</h3> 
Can handle pretty much all runs. You are able to make turns with rhythm and flow on black runs.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Expert</h3>
You know who you are and you can handle anything the mountain throws at you.
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Snowboard Type
</h2>
Back in the day, snowboards were basically all the same.  A thin slice of wood with metal edges.  This was ok for getting down a reasonably steep slope, and that was about it.  Thankfully, nowadays we have snowboards specially designed for all sorts of different purposes.  We group them into 5 different categories. All mountain, freestyle, freeride, powder, and split.
  
<h3 class="section-sub-header">All Mountain</h3>
Designed to work well in all terrains and snow conditions. They are very versatile snowboards and will be able to handle anything the mountain throws at it. Best bet for most riders. 
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Freestyle</h3>
Designed specifically for terrain parks and those who perform tricks.  Freestyle boards are generally twin-tipped and made to be ridden in the center of the board or very close to it.  This is ideal for landing backwards or “switch” after performing a 180 or 540 (or 900!).  If you spend any significant time in “the park” we recommend a freestyle board as it will generally perform better on the rest of the mountain than other board types will perform in the park.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Freeride</h3>
Designed to be taken off the groomers and onto diverse terrain. Typically they are stiffer, longer boards.  If you are frequently going out of bounds or getting into backcountry that doesn’t quite warrant a powder board, freeride might be the best fit.  Freeride boards will do well in powder while still performing far better on groomers than a pure powder board would.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Powder Boards</h3>
Designed to thrive in powder. Ideal pick for backcountry, helicopter or powder-cat snowboarding.  If you are lucky enough to get significant powder days, there is no feeling like riding a proper powder board in 2 feet of the fresh stuff.  But if you are riding a mixture of backcountry and resort, we’d recommend one of the other board types as the powder boards won’t perform great on groomers or in the park.  If you can afford it, having a specialized powder board just for those special days of deep powder will make them all that much better.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Splitboards</h3>
Designed for backcountry riders. Splitboards separate into two ski-like halves for uphill travel.  Splitboarding is great, but these are the absolute least versatile boards and we’d never recommend a split board as a primary board for resort riding.  Almost everyone who buys a split board already has a board or two of the other types. 
</div>
 

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Snowboard Shapes
</h2>

<h3 class="section-sub-header">Asymmetrical</h3> Asymmetrical boards are designed to accommodate for the differences in heel-side and toe side-cuts. They often have a deeper, shorter heel-side cutout relative to the board's toe-side cutout. In addition the flex of the board can be asymmetrical to make heel-side cuts easier for the rider.  We think these boards can largely be a bit gimmicky and wouldn’t recommend them unless you know who you are and exactly what you are looking for.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Directional</h3>Designed mostly for Freeride and Powder boards. These boards will often have a longer and/or wider nose with a shorter and stiffer tail. The binding inserts will also be setback which is optimal for powder runs.  The downside of directional boards is that they are very difficult to ride or land in the switch position so if you are doing lots of spins or just generally like the flexibility of riding with either foot forward the direction is not for you.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Directional Twin</h3>Versatile shape commonly found on All Mountain boards. The nose and tail will be mirror images of each other however the binding inserts are setback. Designed to be ridden forward but they can also handle being ridden switch.  If you are only going to own one board and want to use it in all different types of terrain then a directional twin is likely your best choice.   
<h3 class="section-sub-header">True Twin</h3>The nose and tail are mirror images of each other and the binding inserts are centered. The board also has the same flex on both ends. Best bet for Freestyle snowboards and riders who like to ride switch a lot.  If you spend a majority of your time in the terrain park then a true twin is likely the board shape for you.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Volume Shifted</h3>Short and wide profile. These boards push your weight to the back of the board which keeps the nose on top of the snow. Volume Shifted boards are alternative to the long powder boards and are more maneuverable for tree runs. They are made for backcountry and deep powder days. Most riders buying a volume shifted board already have a more “everyday” board and will reserve the volume shifted board for special backcountry powder days.
</div>


<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Snowboard Sizes
</h2>
Getting the right size board can mean the difference between floating blissfully down the mountain and feeling like a freight train without brakes.  
Our algorithm uses your height, weight, shoe size, and answers from the previous questions to determine your size ranges.  Similar to snowboard type and shape, there are tradeoffs to be made when selecting a board size. In a perfect world we would ride a long directional board as we cruise down the groomer and then have it morph into a shorter volume shifted board as we enter a patch of powdery trees, only to morph again into a mid length twin tip as we launch a 360 off a kicker to finish our run.  Unfortunately here in reality our boards stay the same size and shape all day so we need to find the best size to accommodate most situations we’ll find ourselves in.  Shorter boards are more maneuverable and lighter making them easier to spin and turn. Longer boards are more stable at high speeds and float better in powder. Boards made for larger riders are also a good bit wider in order to accommodate larger boot sizes.  A size 12 boot on a normal to narrow waisted board will result in the toe or heel (or both) of your binding dragging on the snow when carving.  A surefire way to ruin your day.  
</div>


<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Snowboard Base
</h2>
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Extruded</h3>Less expensive and more durable option. However, extruded bases do not hold wax as well and therefore is a much slower base compared to a well-maintained sintered base. There are really only 2 reasons to get an extruded base.  1: Sintered base boards are out of your budget. Or 2: You know that you are going to be too lazy to properly maintain your board.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Sintered</h3>When waxed and maintained properly sintered bases are much faster than extruded bases making it the ideal base for almost all riders. Get a sintered base, take good care of it, thank yourself later.
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Flex
</h2>
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Soft</h3>Ideal for Freestyle snowboards. Soft boards increase mobility for spins, tricks and butters. Soft boards can also be the right pick for beginners because they are easier to control and are more forgiving.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Medium</h3>Versatile flexibility. Can handle speed and carving while also enjoying some of the benefits of soft boards. Best bet for All-Mountain boards.  
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Stiff & Very Stiff</h3>For those that love to carve and speed. Typical on Freeride and Powder boards to make carving in deep powder easier.
Riders who only ride one board should generally choose a medium or stiff board.  Soft and very stiff boards are more specialized use cases in a similar way as volume shifted boards etc.  
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Edge Tech
</h2>
Magne-Traction is the most known name of these technologies but each brand has their own unique name. Edge tech increases contact points on the edge of the snowboard. The purpose of these extra contact points is to help the snowboard maintain its edge while cutting in icy conditions. Snowboards with edge tech are comparable to a serrated knife versus a butter knife. We generally recommend most people select a board with edge tech because the worst case is that you don’t even notice it as you glide through the powder but the best case is it saves your day when you encounter an unexpected patch of ice.  It is not a necessity but it’s a nice feature to have.  
</div>


<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Camber Profile
</h2>
The Camber Profile is the shape of the board when looking down the side. Camber is a convex shape while Rocker is a concave shape. Boards can also be hybrids of Rocker, Camber, and flat. The best pick for you can depend on your snowboard type, ability level and desired feel. This is a lot of information to take in - but don’t worry if you aren’t feeling confident about what to choose here.  Just select “any” and let our AI do the work for you based on your responses to the rest of the questions.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Rocker</h3>Playful feel, initiates turns easily, great for butters, and floats well in powder. However there is less pop and doesn't hold an edge as well compared to Camber boards.  Great for beginners who aren’t as worried about performance at very high speeds.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Camber</h3>Provides good pop for ollies and jumps, improves edge-hold, adds to spring out of a turn and helps with stability at speed. However it is not ideal in powder due to needing to lean back further to keep the nose out of the snow.  Also not ideal for beginners who have trouble “catching” an edge when carving.  
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Rocker/Camber</h3>A directional blend of rocker and camber. Typically adds stability and float in the front while giving added power and control in the back.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Rocker/Camber/Rocker</h3>Initiates turns well and floats in powder, while the center camber adds stability, pop, speed and increased edge-hold. Great pick for beginners.
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Camber/Rocker/Camber</h3>Looser feel and better float in powder than a traditional camber board. Also is easier to initiate turns. It will butter well and land well. This is a great all round profile for the Freestyle and All-Mountain boards
<h3 class="section-sub-header">Rocker/Flat/Rocker</h3>More effective edge than pure Rocker which improves stability at speed. However this profile still retains the catch-free, floaty ride that the Rocker profile provides.

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Brands
</h2>
We generally advise only using brand name as a tiebreaker if two boards both equally meet the rest of your criteria.  There are top trusted brands that have wide ranges of boards (and other products) such as Burton Arbor, and Lib Tech.  And there are brands that specialize in a certain category, such a Jones for backcountry powder boards.  In any event, picking a brand really comes down to personal preference, and we are confident that you will be happy with the quality of any brand of board we recommend.  
</div>

<div class="section">
Congratulations! If you’ve made it this far, you are more than ready to select the perfect board.  With a little help from our trusty AI of course.  And remember, when in doubt, select all options that you think *might* be a fit for you and let us do the rest!
</div>

For those who really want to dive into the deep and learn everything there is to know about their future snowboard before making a purchase.

Complete Guide To Buying A Snowboard 2022

<div class="section">
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;When you are leafing through the snowboard rack in a shop, you'll notice that some snowboards have serrated edges. This design is called Magne-traction and was pioneered by Lib-Tech, but a few other snowboard brands have adopted the idea with their own spin on it.

Let’s take a close look at Magne-Traction, so you can decide if you should buy a snowboard with Magne-Traction or other edge-tech designs.
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
What Is Magne-Traction
</h2>
While you're carving on an edge, most traditional snowboards have two points in contact with the snow. These points are at the nose and tail and take all of the pressure you put into your turns or traverses.

The serreated design of Magne-Traction snowboards increases the number of contact points with the snow. These extra contact points cut into the snow, giving you more grip.

The original Lib-Tech design has 7 bumps, with the largest ones placed between your feet, where the least amount of force goes into the board. You'll notice other brands' serrated edges have 5 to 7 bumps, and they will have their own name for their versions of the tech.

Brands with similar edge-tech include:
<ul>
<li>Burton - Frostbite Edges</li>
<li>Salomon - Equalizer</li>
<li>Arbor - Griptech</li>
<li>Rome - QuickRip</li>
<li>Never Summer - Vario Power Grip</li>
</ul>
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
How Does Magne-Traction Benefit Your Riding
</h2>
When you ride hard-packed snow and ice, you'll really notice the extra grip Magne-Traction gives you. As those bumps cut into the snow, you'll stand less chance of washing out on icy patches. This is especially the case if you ride a rocker snowboard, as they tend to have weaker edge hold than other profiles.

Magne-Traction also benefits park riders. For example, riders who spend a lot of time riding rails and boxes prefer to detune their edges. This reduces the likelihood of catching an edge, but if you do this on a snowboard with regular edges, you lose grip for other aspects of riding. However, detuned Magne-Traction edges still provide grip while protecting you from edge catches.

You may notice that some splitboards have serrated edges. This may seem odd, as they are primarily used in powder, where the extra bumps won't make a difference. However, Magne-Traction helps you during your ascent, as the serrated inside edge gives you lots of grip when making tricky kick turns.
</div>

<div class="section">
<h2 class="section-header">
Should I Get A Snowboard With Magne-Traction?
</h2>
Most snowboarders who have tried Magne-Traction boards have positive experiences with them. They love the extra control and grip the tech provides while cutting through the snow.

If you're lucky enough to spend most of your time riding powder, you won't benefit from serrated edges at all, but these boards aren't aimed at you. 

As with many things, whether you buy a snowboard with Magne Traction or not depends on personal taste. Some people prefer the feeling and performance of traditional snowboard edges. But others love the extra security of Magne-Traction when riding on ice and the added precision when riding aggressively.

So I wouldn't say that Magne-Traction is essential for everyone, but many people can benefit from it. After riding a Magne-Traction snowboard, you may struggle to go back to a snowboard with traditional-style edges.

</div>

Everything to know about Magne-Traction other edge-tech, so you can decide if you should buy a snowboard with edge-tech.

SimplyBuy Blog